If you want a yard that doubles as a garden you actually use, hire a general contractor Lexington KY who handles planning, permits, grading, drainage, structures, and plant-ready spaces. That is the cleanest path. They can build the bones of your outdoor area. Think decks, patios, walkways, pergolas, outdoor kitchens, lighting, and irrigation. Then they set up beds and soils so your plants thrive. The result is a space that looks good, works well, and holds up through Kentucky seasons.
Why a contractor is the keystone of a great outdoor space
A strong outdoor area is not just about a nice deck or a pretty path. It is how all the parts work together. When one person plans the whole system, it is easier to avoid common mistakes.
– One point of contact. Fewer handoffs. Less surprise cost.
– Layout that blends garden and hardscape.
– Correct footings and materials for freeze and thaw.
– Drainage built into day one, not added after a storm.
– A schedule you can follow, not guesswork.
I have seen people start with plants, then pave later, then add lighting after that. It usually costs more. And the results look pieced together.
Start with structure and drainage. Add plants once the site is shaped and stable.
How a Lexington contractor plans for soil, water, and seasons
Lexington yards often have clay-heavy soil. Water lingers. Winters swing. Summers get hot. You can still have a low-fuss garden and patio. You just need the right plan.
– Soil: Dig test holes. Check drainage. You want at least a few inches per hour infiltration around beds. Add compost where plants go. Do not bury topsoil under pavers.
– Water: Grade patios with a gentle slope away from the house. Direct downspouts to dry wells or rain gardens. Consider permeable pavers if you hate puddles.
– Seasons: Use frost-resistant footings and materials. Choose plants that handle zone 6b. Plan shade for July and wind breaks for January.
– Durability: Pick fasteners and connectors rated for outdoor use. Use the right flashing at ledger boards. Small details mean long life.
If water has no plan, it will make its own plan. You will not like it.
Planning your space: a simple flow that works
You do not need a complex design file to get started. A simple sketch and a few decisions can guide everything.
Step 1: Define how you want to use the space
Try to keep it specific.
– Morning coffee spot for two.
– Dinner for six under partial shade.
– A small herb and pollinator garden within 20 feet of the kitchen door.
– Safe path from driveway to back door with lighting.
– A corner for a fire pit, not smoky under the eaves.
– A play strip for kids or dogs that does not turn to mud.
If you only pick one thing, pick the main seating area. That drives the rest.
Step 2: Size the zones
Right-size beats oversize every time.
– Dining area for six needs about 12 by 12 feet if you want walking space.
– Lounge set needs 10 by 10 feet at least.
– Raised beds need sun and easy hose reach. Four by eight feet per bed is a nice start.
– Paths feel good at 36 inches wide or more. If you roll a cart, plan 42 inches.
Step 3: Map sun, shade, wind, and views
Stand in the yard at 9 a.m., noon, and 5 p.m. Note where the sun hits. Notice the neighbor’s window you do not want to stare at during dinner. Even a small trellis or a tree can fix a sightline. Simple, but helpful.
Step 4: Budget ranges
These are ballpark numbers for the Lexington area. Prices vary by site, access, and material choices.
– Basic paver patio: 20 to 35 dollars per square foot
– Composite deck: 45 to 70 dollars per square foot
– Wood deck, pressure treated: 25 to 45 dollars per square foot
– Cedar or metal pergola: 4,000 to 12,000 dollars
– Gas fire feature: 2,000 to 7,000 dollars
– Low voltage lighting package: 1,500 to 6,000 dollars
– French drain or surface drainage work: 2,000 to 10,000 dollars
– Irrigation or drip zones: 1,500 to 4,500 dollars
I know these numbers are not perfect. They give you a sense, which is enough to plan.
Decks, patios, and paths: the backbone of the yard
I think of hardscape as the spine of an outdoor space. Get it right, plants and furniture fall into place.
Deck vs patio
Decks lift you into breezes and views. Patios ground you near gardens. In Lexington, both work. The site often decides. If the back door is high off grade, a deck makes sense. If you have a flat yard, a patio is easier to maintain.
| Surface | Typical cost per sq ft | Lifespan | Care | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pressure treated wood deck | 25 to 45 | 10 to 20 years | Stain every 2 to 3 years | Budget friendly, can splinter |
| Composite deck | 45 to 70 | 25 to 30 years | Wash twice a year | Holds color, higher upfront |
| Poured concrete patio | 12 to 20 | 25 to 40 years | Sealer every few years | Control joints, can crack |
| Concrete pavers | 20 to 35 | 25 to 50 years | Weed control, occasional re-sanding | Repairable by section, permeable option |
| Gravel with edging | 8 to 15 | 10+ years | Rake and top up as needed | Great for drainage, budget pick |
Footings and frost
Central Kentucky has freeze cycles. Deck footings in this area usually go 30 to 36 inches deep, based on code and soil. A licensed contractor will verify. For patios, a compacted base at the right depth matters more than the surface choice.
Spend money on what you do not see, like base prep and footings. That is where durability lives.
Paths that feel good
Garden paths should be steady underfoot and easy to maintain.
– Width: 36 inches minimum. Wider if two people pass often.
– Surface: Pavers, natural stone, or compacted gravel with good edging.
– Grade: Gentle slope. Avoid sudden steps in the dark.
– Lighting: Low fixtures at knee height. Warm color temperature around 2700K.
I once tested path widths with cardboard strips. It looked silly. It worked.
Pergolas, shade, and privacy
Lexington summers can be bright. Some shade goes a long way. A simple pergola with a climber can cool a dining area by a few degrees.
– Materials: Cedar, pressure treated lumber, or powder coated steel.
– Size: Span the full seating zone. Posts should stay out of traffic routes.
– Cover: Slats, shade cloth, or a retractable canopy.
– Plants: Native trumpet honeysuckle, clematis, or wisteria if you can handle pruning.
For privacy, aim for layered solutions. A 6 foot fence solves line of sight, but a staggered hedge softens noise and views. Mix shrubs with a light screen panel near seating.
Outdoor kitchens and simple cook stations
Not everyone needs a full outdoor kitchen. Many people are happy with a sturdy grill pad and a side shelf. If you cook outside a lot, build a weather-resistant base and tie gas safely.
– Counter height around 36 inches.
– Non-combustible surfaces near heat.
– Plan trash pullout and a spot for tongs and trays.
– Leave space for airflow and cleaning.
– If you add a sink, plan winterization. Shutoff valves in a warm interior space help.
Gas or electric must be done by pros. No hero moves.
Fire features and water features that do not fight the garden
A fire pit is easy to love. Wood smoke can bother neighbors and plants near it, so pick the right location. Gas is clean and quick. Wood costs less and is simple.
– Keep at least 10 feet from structures and 6 feet from plant beds.
– Seat wall height around 18 inches is comfortable.
– On patios, add a spark-control screen if you use wood.
Water features can be as simple as a recirculating bowl. The sound helps mask street noise. Avoid placing a pond under big trees if you do not want to scoop leaves in fall.
Drainage, grading, and erosion control
This is the part people skip. Then they pay for it. Central Kentucky clay holds water. Gardens near patios need a way to breathe.
– Regrade to move water away from the house at a 2 percent slope when possible.
– Catch downspout runoff with a dry well, rain barrel, or a rock lined swale.
– Use permeable pavers in problem zones.
– Add a French drain only if you have a clear outlet and the soil warrants it.
– Place beds slightly raised if water lingers after storms.
A quick field test helps. Dig a 12 inch hole, fill with water, and see how long it takes to drain. If it is still full after four hours, plan for drainage work.
Plants for a Lexington garden that fits with hardscape
You do not need a plant encyclopedia. A small, tough palette is often better. Go heavy on natives for pollinators and lower care.
Trees and large shrubs
– Eastern redbud
– Serviceberry
– Black gum
– River birch for wetter spots
– Arrowwood viburnum
Perennials and grasses
– Purple coneflower
– Black-eyed Susan
– Bee balm
– Butterfly weed
– Little bluestem
– Switchgrass
– Blue flag iris for rain gardens
Edibles and herbs near the kitchen
– Rosemary in a pot you can move inside during a hard freeze
– Thyme along path edges
– Basil in summer
– Chives and parsley
– A small bed of strawberries if kids are around
Group plants by water needs. Keep thirsty plants together near a hose. Place low water plants higher up the slope. It sounds obvious. People miss it.
Budget 10 to 20 percent of the project for plants and soils. Hardscape lasts, but plants make it feel alive.
Lighting that respects gardens and neighbors
Good lighting is not bright. It is helpful, warm, and low glare.
– Use 12 volt low voltage systems for safety and flexibility.
– Aim lights down, not up into the sky.
– Choose 2700K warm white for comfort.
– Put path lights where your foot changes direction, not every 3 feet like a runway.
– Add a timer and a photo sensor so lights run themselves.
Feature lighting is fine. Keep it subtle. A soft wash on a redbud looks nice. Flooding the fence does not.
Irrigation and water use
Drip irrigation in planting beds saves water and keeps leaves dry. Lawns are personal. If you keep one, consider a smart controller and rain sensor. Your contractor can tie valves and lines into the build so later changes are easier.
– Drip for beds.
– Spray or rotor for lawn.
– Separate zones for sun and shade.
– A clean gravel ring around heads so they do not clog.
You can also water by hand. Just make sure the hose bib is near the beds you care about.
Permits, codes, and property lines in Fayette County
Most attached decks, larger detached decks, and roofed structures need permits. Gas and electric work always do. Many fences have height and placement rules. Some neighborhoods have their own rules too.
– Verify property lines before you build.
– Call 811 before digging to mark utilities.
– Talk to Lexington-Fayette building inspection for decks, porches, and covered areas.
– Keep setbacks in mind. Your plan needs breathing room.
This part is not fun. It is still cheaper than moving a pergola after inspection fails. I learned that the hard way on a different project years ago. I thought we had enough clearance. We did not.
Accessibility and comfort
Think about future you. Or guests.
– Keep key paths at 36 inches wide or more.
– Avoid single steps. Use gentle slopes when possible.
– Pick door thresholds that roll over easily.
– Place one seating zone in shade, one in sun.
– Add hooks for garden tools and a bench for putting on shoes.
Small quality-of-life choices make a space you use daily.
Pick materials you will not regret
Trends come and go. Simple materials age better.
– Composite decking in a mid-tone brown or gray.
– Concrete pavers with a clean edge. Not too many patterns.
– Gravel with steel or concrete edging.
– Cedar or painted steel for pergolas.
– Powder coated metal railings that match the house trim.
If you want color, plant it.
Workflow with your contractor
A clear process saves everyone time and stress.
Before the project
– Walk the site together. Point to must-keep trees and utilities.
– Share a list of how you want to use the space.
– Agree on a rough budget range and any limits.
– Ask for a simple plan view and a scope of work.
During the project
– Set a weekly check-in time. Ten minutes is enough.
– Approve materials and finishes before ordering.
– Keep change orders in writing.
– Ask for photos of any underground or hidden work before it is covered.
After the project
– Get a packet with manuals, colors, and supplier info.
– Ask for a full walk-through on drainage and irrigation controls.
– Set a date 60 days out to address small punch items.
Common mistakes to avoid
– Starting with plants before grading and hardscape
– Under-sizing the main seating area
– Skipping drainage planning
– Placing a fire pit too close to the house or beds
– Forgetting conduit runs for future lights or speakers
– Choosing slick surfaces on slopes
– Putting raised beds where roots will invade from a tree
One more I see a lot. Buying furniture before the patio is built. Measure the patio first. Then order.
A real-world layout that works on small lots
Let me share a compact plan that fits many Lexington backyards, say 40 by 60 feet behind a ranch home.
– A 12 by 14 foot paver patio right off the back door for dining.
– A 10 by 10 foot gravel lounge corner with a gas fire bowl.
– A 4 by 16 foot raised bed strip along the fence, with drip irrigation.
– A 36 inch crushed stone path that connects driveway to the back door.
– A cedar pergola over the dining space with shade cloth.
– A rain garden near the downspout discharge, planted with blue flag iris and sedges.
– Low voltage lights at the steps, path bends, and one accent on a redbud.
Cost varies by material choices, but many projects like this land between 25,000 and 55,000 dollars in this market. Add-ons like an outdoor kitchen island or composite decking push it higher. You can phase it if needed. Build patio and drainage first, plants second, pergola and fire later.
Case study: from soggy lawn to garden patio
A Lexington homeowner had a flat backyard with heavy clay. Every storm left puddles. The back door sat 24 inches above grade. They wanted a small garden, a dining area, and less mud.
The contractor plan was simple.
– Drop a new 12 by 16 foot paver patio at grade with a 2 percent slope away from the house.
– Build a 24 inch high, 3 foot deep landing deck at the door with a wide step down to the patio.
– Re-route two downspouts into a rock swale that feeds a small rain garden.
– Raise two planting beds by 8 inches with a compost and topsoil blend.
– Run a drip line to beds and sleeves under the patio for future use.
– Add four path lights and two step lights.
– Plant redbud, serviceberry, coneflower, bee balm, and a little bluestem border.
They kept a small lawn patch. The rest turned into garden and gravel. The yard drained after storms. The patio dried fast. They started cooking outside three nights a week. I might have chosen a different gravel color, but they loved it.
Maintenance you can plan in 30 minutes a month
A small routine keeps the space in shape.
Monthly
– Sweep or blow debris off hard surfaces.
– Check for standing water after rain.
– Inspect irrigation for clogs or breaks.
– Pull weeds in joints and beds.
Seasonal
– Spring: Add mulch, check lights, adjust timer.
– Summer: Trim growth away from fixtures and pathways.
– Fall: Clean leaves from drains and swales.
– Winter: Store cushions, shut off and drain outdoor water lines if needed.
Every 2 to 3 years
– Clean and seal pavers or concrete if you like the protected look.
– Restain wood structures if you chose that path.
Do not let little issues stack up. A loose paver, a wobbly baluster, a clogged emitter. Fix them fast and you avoid bigger costs.
How to choose the right contractor in Lexington
Pick based on fit, not just price. Ask direct questions.
– Can you show three outdoor projects similar in size and style?
– How do you handle drainage design and water flow?
– What is included in base preparation for patios?
– Who pulls permits and schedules inspections?
– Who is on site each day and who is my contact?
– How do you handle change orders?
– What warranty do you offer on labor and on materials?
Ask for a simple plan drawing and a materials list before deposit. If someone will not write it down, that is a signal.
Make your outdoor space friendly to birds and pollinators
You can have a tidy patio and still support a healthy garden. This matters if you enjoy parks and want some of that calm at home.
– Plant a mix of blooming natives from spring through fall.
– Leave some seed heads over winter for birds.
– Add a shallow water dish with stones for insects.
– Use fewer chemicals. Spot treat weeds, do not spray the whole bed.
– Keep outdoor lights low and off after bedtime.
It is a small set of choices. It adds up.
Phasing your project if you want to spread cost
You do not have to do everything at once. A clear phase plan helps.
Phase 1
– Drainage and grading
– Patio or deck
– Sleeves under hardscape for future utilities
Phase 2
– Pergola or shade
– Lighting and drip lines
– Primary planting beds
Phase 3
– Outdoor kitchen or fire feature
– Secondary plantings
– Furniture and accessories
Put the messy earthwork in phase 1. Plants like that too, because you are not tearing them up later.
What I would do first on almost any Lexington yard
– Walk the site after a rain and watch where water goes.
– Stand at the kitchen door and decide where the main seating zone lands.
– Measure sunlight for beds. Six hours for tomatoes, four hours for many perennials.
– Pick one material for paths and one for the main surface. Keep it simple.
– Lock down a budget range and stick to it.
If you nail those, the rest gets easier.
Quick checklist before you sign a contract
- Clear scope with drawings and elevations where needed
- Line-item costs for major parts
- Drainage plan with slopes and discharge points
- Footing depths and base specs in writing
- Permit responsibilities defined
- Timeline with start window and estimated duration
- Warranty terms, change order process, and final payment timing
Why this matters for people who love gardens and parks
Parks feel calm because paths make sense, water has a place to go, and seating invites you to pause. You can borrow that approach at home. A contractor builds the structure that holds your garden, then plants bring the life. Even a small yard can feel like a pocket park. Not perfect, and that is fine. Nature never is.
If I sound cautious about drainage and sizing, yes, I am. I have seen patios flood because someone skipped a simple swale. I have also seen tiny tweaks, like moving a seat wall by two feet, turn a decent yard into a great one.
FAQ: quick answers before you call a pro
How long does a typical outdoor project take?
Planning can take 2 to 6 weeks. Permits add time. Build time ranges from 1 to 8 weeks based on scope and weather.
What should I tackle first, plants or hardscape?
Hardscape and drainage first. Then plants. Your garden will be happier.
Do I need a permit for my deck or pergola?
Many projects do. Attached decks, larger detached decks, and covered structures usually need permits. Ask Lexington-Fayette building inspection or your contractor.
What is a good low care plant list for Lexington?
Start with redbud, serviceberry, coneflower, black-eyed Susan, little bluestem, and bee balm. Add more later.
Can I phase the project to manage cost?
Yes. Do grading and main surfaces first. Add shade, plants, and lighting next. Finish with fire or kitchen features.
How much should I spend on plants vs hardscape?
Plan 10 to 20 percent of the total for plants and soils. If your yard is bare, aim near 20 percent.
What about winter use?
Add a gas fire bowl, wind block, and good lighting. Keep paths clear and textured for grip.
How do I keep water away from the house?
Slope surfaces away, extend downspouts, and add a swale or drain as needed. Your contractor can show you the flow on paper before work starts.
Is gravel a good patio surface?
Yes, if you like a casual feel and have solid edging. It drains well and costs less. Chairs with thin legs can sink, so choose furniture with wider feet.
What is one thing I should not skip?
A site walk in the rain if you can catch one. If not, a hose test. You learn a lot about the land in 15 minutes.
