The fastest way to make your garden greener in Colorado Springs is to swap gas tools for electric, use smart irrigation with soil sensors, run low-voltage LED lighting, add safe outdoor power with GFCI protection, plan off-peak charging, and, when it fits your budget, feed those loads with rooftop or yard solar and a small battery. If you want a local starting point for wiring plans and rebates, this page on Colorado Springs electrification is a useful reference. That is the short answer. The longer path has a few smart moves, a couple of seasonal habits, and one or two choices that might surprise you.
Why electrification fits gardens in the Springs
Colorado Springs sits high, dry, and sunny. You get intense sun, cold snaps, wind, and sometimes hail. Lawns and beds need steady care, but you also want quiet mornings and clean air. That is where electrification helps. It cuts fumes, lowers noise, and gives you better control over water and power. And it can save money over time, even if the first steps feel like a small project.
Electric tools cut noise and local air pollution at the source, right where you breathe and plant.
I switched my own trimmer and blower two summers ago. My neighbors noticed the quiet before they noticed the cleaner edges. That sounds funny, but it tracks with what you will feel. Less noise first. Fewer trips to buy gas next. Then the yard starts to feel calmer, and your hands smell like thyme again, not fuel.
A quick plan you can follow this month
If you want a simple path, try this four-step sequence. It is not perfect, and I might reorder it for a big property, but it works for most yards inside city limits.
- Pick one gas tool and replace it with a cordless model. Start with your noisiest tool.
- Install a smart irrigation controller and one soil sensor. Do a one-zone test.
- Swap old landscape bulbs for LED and add a transformer with a timer and photocell.
- Schedule charging and irrigation outside weekday peak hours. Save a little each month.
Start with one swap. Reduce friction. Build a habit. Then scale to the rest of your yard.
If that feels too gentle, go faster. If it feels like a lot, that is fine. Many people start with lighting because it is cheap and obvious. I like starting with the loudest tool because it changes your day right away.
Tool swaps that cut fumes and keep power high
Mowers that handle altitude and thick grass
Battery mowers have come a long way. In the Springs, pick a brushless model with at least a 20 inch deck and two batteries. The air is thinner at 6,000 feet, and late spring growth can be heavy in irrigated areas. You want torque headroom.
- Deck size: 20 to 22 inches for most lawns
- Battery: two 5 to 8 Ah packs for a half acre
- Drive: self-propelled helps on slopes near Rockrimmon and Broadmoor
- Blades: keep sharp, especially after wind-blown grit dulls edges
Will a battery mower bog down in wet June grass after a storm? It can. Raise the deck one notch, take a second pass, and let it dry an hour. Gas mowers struggle in the same spot. The difference is you do not smell like a tailpipe when you are done.
String trimmers, blowers, and chainsaws
These are easy wins. A 56V or 60V trimmer with a 0.095 inch line balances runtime and cut quality. For blowers, look for 600 CFM or higher for pine needles. Chainsaws in the 14 to 16 inch range handle most pruning and storm cleanup. If you are clearing beetle-kill logs, you still might keep a gas saw. I do, though I use it less each year.
Noise drops fast when you go electric. Most battery blowers run around 60 to 70 dB at the lot line, while many gas units push past 80.
A quick tip. Keep one shared battery platform for mower, trimmer, and blower. Fewer chargers. Easier storage. And charge indoors in winter for better battery health.
Snow tools for shoulder seasons
Heavy March snow can be wet and sticky. A cordless single-stage blower clears most sidewalks. For big driveways or plow berms, a two-stage electric model or a small gas unit is still practical. I lean electric for walkways and save hired plowing for the big dumps. That mix works with garden gear storage and keeps the garage cleaner.
Smarter irrigation with less water waste
Controllers that read the weather and your soil
Water is precious here. A smart controller that uses weather data and a soil moisture sensor will cut watering while keeping plants healthy. The trick is local tuning. Do not set it and forget it forever.
- Set sprinkler types per zone. Rotors and drip need very different run times.
- Use cycle and soak on slopes to prevent runoff.
- Add a flow meter to catch broken heads or leaks fast.
- Schedule early morning runs to reduce evaporation and wind losses.
On pricing with the utility, many households in the Springs see higher electric rates in late afternoon and early evening on weekdays. Watering before sunrise sidesteps wind and peak pricing. It also prevents fungus, which tends to rise with evening watering.
Soil moisture sensors that actually pay off
One good sensor beats a dozen cheap ones. Place it in the thirstiest zone, usually sunny turf or a bed with shallow-rooted perennials. Calibrate once per season. You will see fewer dry spots and fewer drowned plants. I resisted this step for years. I was wrong to wait.
Pumps, rain barrels, and cisterns
Rain is inconsistent, and summer storms dump fast. A barrel or small cistern with an electric transfer pump turns that chaos into useful irrigation. A 1 to 2 horsepower pump paired with a screen filter works for most yards. If power reach is tricky, a small 12V pump powered by a dedicated panel and battery can move water from a lower barrel up to a drip manifold. Just add a GFCI outlet within reach, in a weatherproof box.
Do not skip backflow prevention. In the city, your irrigation line needs a proper backflow device. It protects your drinking water. If you are not sure what you have, take a photo of the valve assembly and ask a licensed pro or the utility.
Landscape lighting that looks clean and sips power
Low-voltage LED basics
LED landscape fixtures use a fraction of the energy and last for years. Use a 12V transformer with a photocell and a simple timer. Warm white at 2700K to 3000K looks natural on stone and plants. If you like cooler light, that is personal, but I find it harsh on native grasses.
- Path lights: 100 to 200 lumens each
- Spot lights: 200 to 400 lumens for small trees and features
- Beam spreads: 10 to 60 degrees, pick narrow for tall aspens, wider for shrubs
- Wiring: 12 or 14 gauge low-voltage cable, buried a few inches down
Many people ask about solar path lights. They work in open sun but struggle in shaded yards or after a cloudy stretch. Mixed systems can be smart. Use wired LED for main paths and a few solar accents for flexible spots you may move later.
Timers, photocells, and wildlife
Keep lights on a schedule that respects nighttime. Birds and pollinators benefit from dark skies. Aim lights down. Avoid bright uplights on trees used by nesting birds. Use the lowest brightness that still gives safe footing.
Power for greenhouses and garden sheds
Ventilation and heat that do not toast your bill
A small greenhouse swings from chilly to sweltering in a day. Electric gear lets you smooth those swings without fumes.
- Inline fans and louvered vents tied to a thermostat for steady air exchange
- Circulation fans on low to reduce fungus on leaves
- Heat mats for seed starts so you warm roots, not the whole space
- Compact infrared heaters for short morning runs on freezing days
For larger spaces, a mini split heat pump can heat and cool the structure while sipping power. It also dehumidifies, which is handy during summer monsoons. If you run one, shade the outdoor unit and clean filters often. Dust builds up fast during spring winds.
Lighting for growth, not waste
LED grow lights with a balanced spectrum give strong starts without the heat of old fixtures. Hang them so you can raise and lower as plants grow. Use a simple digital timer. Better yet, plug lights into a smart plug that reports energy use. Seeing actual numbers is motivating. You may even cut runtimes after a week of watching.
Electrical layout in outbuildings
When you bring power to a shed or greenhouse, plan for future tools you might adopt. Trench once, pull extra conduit, and leave a spare circuit if your panel can handle it. Use weather-resistant receptacles and covers, GFCI protection, and outdoor-rated junction boxes.
Protect outdoor circuits with GFCI and in-use covers. Weather shifts fast here, and you want electronics to survive that first sideways rain.
If you are unsure about panel space or trench depth, ask for an inspection. The time you save later makes it worth the call.
Solar and batteries for garden loads
We get many sunny days. That is perfect for running garden gear, lighting, and small pumps. You do not need a giant system to make a real dent. A few panels and a modest battery can handle night lighting and morning irrigation without touching the grid.
Right-sizing a small system
Here is a simple way to map loads to solar. Pick the things you want to run and match them to panel wattage and battery capacity.
| Garden load | Typical power | Daily runtime | Daily energy | Suggested solar | Suggested battery |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| LED landscape lights, 10 fixtures | 3 W each | 6 hours | 180 Wh | 150 to 250 W | 0.5 kWh |
| Drip irrigation pump booster | 250 W | 0.5 hour | 125 Wh | 200 W | 0.5 kWh |
| Greenhouse fans | 60 W | 8 hours | 480 Wh | 400 to 600 W | 1.0 kWh |
| Tool charging, mixed | 200 W | 1 hour | 200 Wh | 200 W | 0.5 kWh |
These are ballpark numbers. Cloud cover, shade from trees, and winter sunlight change things. I like to oversize by 25 percent to 40 percent to stay comfortable during shoulder seasons.
If you already have rooftop solar, you can dedicate a subpanel or smart plugs to track garden energy. It is satisfying to see lights and pumps run on sunlight. Small wins add up.
Charging and storage for yard gear and EVs
Plan charging zones
Make a tidy charging shelf in the garage. Mount chargers, label batteries by tool, and add a simple fan for airflow during hot afternoons. Keep packs at 40 percent to 60 percent charge when stored for weeks. For winter, charge indoors where it is warmer, then move packs to the garage before you work.
EV charging and yard work
If you are adding a Level 2 charger, think about conduit paths. If you are already trenching for new lighting or a shed feed, it is smart to run spare conduit for a future charger. That way you will not dig twice. Many homeowners in the Springs schedule EV charging after 9 pm and finish before morning sprinklers kick in. It keeps the panel happy and spreads load overnight.
Safety and code basics in the Springs
I am not going to pretend code is fun reading. Still, a few points matter a lot outdoors.
- Use GFCI protection on all outdoor receptacles.
- Use in-use covers on outlets exposed to rain or snow.
- Use UF-B cable or conduit-rated wire for buried runs. Meet burial depth rules.
- Seal all penetrations with approved caulk to keep pests and water out.
- Label circuits. You will thank yourself during a thunderstorm reset.
- Permits and inspections are part of the process for new circuits and trenching.
If you plan to add a greenhouse subpanel, ask a local electrician about panel capacity and load calculations. It sounds tedious, but catching a panel constraint early saves time and money.
Budget and savings: where the money shakes out
Costs vary by brand and yard size. These ranges reflect recent prices I have seen around town. Savings include fuel you stop buying, water you save, and some maintenance you avoid.
| Item | Upfront cost | Yearly savings | Payback range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Battery mower, 20 to 22 inch | 400 to 900 | 70 to 150 | 3 to 8 years | Fuel and maintenance avoided |
| String trimmer and blower combo | 250 to 500 | 40 to 90 | 3 to 6 years | Shared batteries help a lot |
| Smart irrigation controller + sensor | 150 to 400 | 80 to 200 | 1 to 4 years | Water savings vary with lot size |
| LED landscape lights, 10 fixtures | 200 to 700 | 20 to 50 | 4 to 10 years | Bulb life reduces ladder time |
| Small solar kit, 400 W + 1 kWh battery | 1,200 to 2,500 | 60 to 150 | 8 to 15 years | Best when paired with daily loads |
Payback is only part of the story. Quiet mornings and cleaner air are hard to price. If you are on a tight budget, start with the controller and LED bulbs. Those two often pay back fastest in the Springs.
Seasonal checklist for garden electrification
Spring
- Sharpen mower blades. Check trimmer line and spare batteries.
- Flush irrigation, check for leaks, recalibrate the controller.
- Test GFCI outlets and replace cracked covers.
- Clear solar fixtures and panels of dust after wind events.
Summer
- Run irrigation just before dawn. Adjust for heat waves.
- Shade batteries during heat. Store in a cool corner.
- Rinse condenser coils on mini splits if you use one.
Fall
- Blow out irrigation lines before hard freeze.
- Drop landscape lighting runtimes as nights lengthen.
- Charge tool batteries to near half for winter storage.
Winter
- Use heat mats and LEDs for seed starts.
- Run fans on low in greenhouses to prevent mold.
- Spot charge tools indoors on cold days to protect cells.
A mini case study from the west side
My yard in Old Colorado City is small, hilly, and windy. I started with a cordless trimmer and a basic smart controller. The first season, I cut two watering days per week on the turf and lost zero color. The trimmer handled bindweed around tomato cages without throwing pebbles at the windows, which felt like a small miracle. Next season I added a 12V pump on a 100 watt panel to move water from a half-buried cistern to a drip header. That let me run a micro zone during watering restrictions without touching the main line. Do I still have a gas chainsaw? Yes. I use it maybe three times a year. The rest of the time, the yard is all electric, and I like it that way.
Myths and honest tradeoffs
Electric tools are weak
Old ones were. New brushless models are not. You will still hit limits in wet, knee-high grass. Plan around storms and keep blades sharp. That beats dumping more fuel into a bogged gas mower.
Batteries will not last in the cold
They lose runtime in winter. Charge indoors and keep spares warm until use. For summer, heat is the bigger threat. Store out of direct sun. A simple shelf fan goes a long way.
Solar is overkill for a yard
Not always. A small kit can cover lights, fans, and pump boosts. If you already have rooftop panels, it can be as simple as assigning smart plugs to a garden group and tracking use. I wish I did this sooner, since seeing numbers made it real for me.
You need a generator for backup
Sometimes. If you rely on a greenhouse for winter greens, a quiet inverter generator is a safety net. But a small battery with a transfer switch can ride through short outages and keep fans or pumps going. I like batteries for most garden loads because they are quiet and fume free. A generator is still handy for long storms. Both can live in the same plan.
Local habits that save more than gear alone
Tools are step one. Schedules and habits make the big difference over a year.
- Water before sunrise and never on windy afternoons.
- Charge tools at night to avoid weekday peak prices.
- Mulch beds to hold moisture for your controller to work less.
- Plant native or low-water species so sensors call for fewer cycles.
- Group thirstier plants on one zone so drip runs are precise.
Gear matters, but habits lock in the gains. If you skip scheduling and mulching, you give back half your savings.
A few wiring ideas that gardeners appreciate
One trench, many uses
If you are trenching for irrigation, drop in low-voltage lighting cable and a spare conduit. Future you will be grateful. Keep high and low voltage separated. Label both ends. Bring all lines into a small exterior-rated junction box near the house so you do not have to dig again for a fault find.
Weather and wildlife
Squirrels love chewing soft cable. Use conduit for exposed runs under decks and around fences. Seal openings with steel wool and caulk. After spring winds, check that in-use covers are closed. It sounds obvious. You will forget at least once. I did.
Inspection timing
Schedule electrical inspections before you backfill long trenches. Photos help, but seeing depth and conduit type in person prevents rework. It is not fun to dig twice.
Greener gardens meet quiet mornings
In the Springs, clean power pairs well with water-wise planting and calm routines. You do not need to do everything at once. One tool and one sensor can change the feel of your yard fast. Keep the next steps simple. Replace the loudest thing. Fix the leakiest zone. Light only what you walk. Add solar when you have steady loads to feed. If you want help mapping circuits or picking hardware, that early planning call pays for itself when you are charging quietly at night and the beds look great by June.
Questions and answers
What is the first electrification step that saves the most water?
A smart controller paired with one good soil sensor. It trims watering without guesswork and prevents overwatering during cool weeks.
Can a battery mower handle thick bluegrass after a storm?
Yes, with a sharp blade, a slightly higher cut, and a second pass if the grass is wet. Pick a model with two batteries and a brushless motor for better torque.
Do I need a permit to add a greenhouse circuit?
New circuits and trenching generally require a permit and inspection. Plan for GFCI protection and outdoor-rated gear. Call before you dig to locate utilities.
Is solar worth it for just lights and a small pump?
If those loads run daily, a small panel and battery will cover them well. If they run once a week, rooftop solar with a smart plug might be the simpler path.
How do I protect batteries in summer heat?
Store on a shaded wall, add a small fan for airflow, and avoid leaving packs on chargers in direct sun. Aim for partial charge during long storage.
What about winter?
Charge indoors on cold days, use heat mats for starts, and run small fans in greenhouses to prevent mold. Keep outdoor outlets covered and test GFCIs after storms.
